photos: a place called paradise

Paradise Bay, Antarctica

What more do I need to say?

Paradise Bay, Antarctica

Paradise Bay, Antarctica

Paradise Bay, Antarctica

Paradise Bay, Antarctica

Paradise Bay, Antarctica

Paradise Bay, Antarctica

Paradise Bay, Antarctica

#FriFotos on Twitter
Every Friday, people around the world share pictures on a different theme.
The theme for May 11, 2012 is “paradise” – check it out now on Twitter!

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the hotness scale: san pedro (ambergris caye)

Likes:
+50 for gorgeous seaside views
+50 for spectacular scuba diving
+25 for the abundance of fresh orange juice and fresh watermelon juice
+20 for nights hanging out at Fido’s Restaurant & Bar
+10 for the lobster burrito (and everything else) at Waruguma
+15 for the ham and cheese panini at Ambergris Brewing Co.
+15 for the coffee-flavoured rum at The Rum, Cigar & Coffee House
+30 for great laughs at Wahoo’s Chicken Drop
+5 for international postage stamps that are only BZD$0.30 (US$0.15)
+75 for an island full of lovely, friendly people
+30 for long days doing nothing in a Belizean clam chair
+10 for hot sauce on every dining table

Dislikes:
-20 for feisty sandflies (ouch!)
-20 for mosquitoes that manage to bite in odd places
-50 for parents who use their children to sell trinkets to tourists
-5 for narrow roads congested with trucks and golf carts

Overall rating:
+240 points thanks to a very happy stomach

Posted in Belize, Travelogue | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

chartering a plane over the great blue hole, belize

Caribbean Sea near Belize

Caribbean Sea near Belize

Sometimes an idea takes hold and doesn’t let go. You think to yourself, I have to do this. That’s how I felt about travelling to Antarctica, and that’s how my new friend Angie felt about seeing the Great Blue Hole in Belize.

It’s easy to find water-based trips; dozens of companies offer scuba diving and snorkelling trips from tourist hotspots like Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye.

But, that classic image – the dark sinkhole in the turquoise sea – well, that can only be seen from the sky. So, you can imagine Angie’s excitement when we learned we could fly over the Blue Hole.

After a lot of misinformation from people and from the Internet, it came down to persistence and dumb luck. Here’s a look at how we did it.

Taking a chance

After dead leads and outrageous price quotes, Angie thought it would be best to take a chance at the Caye Caulker Airport. At 9 a.m., she rounded up the group from our Intrepid Travel trip and we headed to the airport to ask for a plane.

Caye Caulker is a small island. You can walk to the airport from the town centre in about 15 minutes. With one asphalt runway and one wooden building containing offices, it is by far the smallest airport I’ve ever seen.

Tropic Air office in Caye Caulker, Belize

Tropic Air office in Caye Caulker, Belize

A lucky break

Tropic Air, one of Belize’s two domestic airlines, sent us a plane from the head office in Ambergris Caye almost right away. Our private plane – an eight-seater, single-engine GippsAero Airvan – landed in Caye Caulker just before 11 a.m.

GippsAero GA8 Airvan

GippsAero GA8 Airvan

Off we go

Abner, the pilot, made six people very happy that day with an amazing flight over tropical islands, reefs and water in all shades of blue.

Taking off from Caye Caulker

Taking off from Caye Caulker

The gorgeous Caribbean Sea

The gorgeous Caribbean Sea

The money shot

20 minutes after takeoff, we spotted Lighthouse Reef and the Great Blue Hole.

The reaction? A collective “wow!”

Great Blue Hole, Belize

Great Blue Hole, Belize (through a scratched window)

Abner circled the hole several times, clockwise and counterclockwise so both sides of the plane got a good look, and we flew quite low since there wasn’t anyone around at first. 20 minutes at Lighthouse Reef was plenty yet not enough.

Great Blue Hole, Belize

Great Blue Hole, Belize

If you go

  • Tropic Air (www.tropicair.com) flies all over Belize. The airports in Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye are closest to the Blue Hole.
  • Showing up in person worked for us; we were quoted much higher prices elsewhere. Go in advance in case a same-day flight isn’t possible.
  • The cost is determined by the plane and the air time, and is therefore highly variable. Our flight lasted approximately 70 minutes and cost BZD$1,420 (US$710 total or US$118 per person for six people).
  • The cost per person is cheaper if you can fill up a plane. That’s three, seven or 14 people according to the Tropic Air site.

More photos from Belize

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a spectacular welcome to belize (“this is happiness”)

I want to be where the sun warms the sky
When it’s time for siesta you can watch them go by
Beautiful faces, no cares in this world
Where a girl loves a boy and a boy loves a girl
– Madonna, La Isla Bonita

I arrived in Belize in the late afternoon of February 6, in the lull between day and night.

In the seaside town of San Pedro, dive shops closed up on the long, wooden piers and the last few boats zipped back to shore. High schoolers ended their soccer game on the beach, where frayed rope marked the goalposts. The orange sunset lit up sandy streets and wooden buildings painted in shades of pink, yellow and turquoise.

As beautiful as it was, this isn’t what sticks out in my mind when I think of Belize.

Sunset in Belize

Since I returned home on Sunday, many people have asked about my favourite parts of Belize. I haven’t really had an answer. The scuba diving, caving and jungle trekking were all amazing experiences. Two weeks went by way too fast.

But, tonight, I decided on my favourite moment. Advance warning: this is about to get really corny.

I had my Eat, Pray, Love moment in San Pedro (…though beach bumming took place of praying).

That first night, I had a pier to myself in the fringes of San Pedro.

A full moon hung low in the cloudless sky. The moonlight bounced off soft waves, causing the Caribbean Sea to glimmer furiously.

It didn’t seem real. The moonlight, the saltwater breeze, the stillness of the beach – it was like a perfectly staged movie set.

That night, I tweeted:


I’ve only mentioned this to a few people: I ended my long-term relationship with KC in November. I didn’t feel like myself after that. It’s one reason why this blog went silent. I didn’t want to write about Germany because I was there with him.

That night in San Pedro, away from my real life, alone in the moonlight, I felt happy for the first time in months.

So, it’s as simple as that. My favourite part of Belize was sitting on a pier and feeling happy.

It’s a damn powerful feeling.

Moonlight in Belize

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antarctic penguins: one of these things is not like the others

Gentoo penguins, Antarctica

Jugla Point, Antarctica (March 2011)

Did you see it?

In the middle, there’s a melanistic penguin!

Melanism is a condition of increased pigmentation. In penguins, this means they have black feathers where they should normally have white feathers.

Regular penguin and melanistic penguin, Antarctica

Young gentoo penguins: white belly and black belly

It’s an evolutionary disadvantage. You know in Jaws, how the shark sees the dark figure swimming above? It’s like that for seals and penguins. A white belly helps the penguin blend into the overhead light, while a dark belly is easier to spot.

More penguin photos

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photo: anywhere but here

up in the air

In the sky between Toronto and Boston.

But, this photo looks like it could have been taken anywhere. Open sky. Endless possibilities. That’s why this is on my iPhone wallpaper this week.

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a place and a time and a colour

As the Boeing 747 descended into Frankfurt, the grey nothingness around us suddenly changed. Intense, red light sliced through the windows, painting neon blocks against the top of the cabin.

I looked at the horizon for a split second before I shut my eyes against the glare. I could still see the red through my eyelids.

Maybe it was the location, or the timing, or both. Maybe that’s just how sunrises are in Frankfurt. Red.

Sunset over Frankfurt
Sunset over Frankfurt am Main, from the Main Tower observation deck

(I know this is more orange than red, and it’s sunset instead of sunrise, but you get the point. I wasn’t able to get a moment of the same brilliant red as that first morning.)

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a quick hello from yyz

Greetings from Toronto Pearson International Airport!

The blog has been quiet lately, but new ramblings are coming as it’s time to jet off again. I’m headed to Europe to see KC, who moved to Switzerland earlier this year.

I’ve travelled solo and travelled with friends, but travelling as a couple is new for me. KC and I have *vacationed* together but haven’t *travelled* together. Foreign languages, dashing to catch trains, jetlag and general exhaustion… I’m kinda scared we’ll kill each other along the way.

First stop: Frankfurt, Germany.

I’ve only been to Germany in transit. Specifically, I bolted through the Frankfurt airport to catch a connecting flight. Running down the hall with bags flailing? Check. Dropping something along the way and scrambling to get it? Check. Arriving at the gate breathless and harried? Check. Hopefully I won’t be such a cliché this time. Stay tuned!

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why i love travel & a quote that’s been on my mind

“Don’t keep forever on the public road, going only where others have gone. Leave the beaten track occasionally and dive into the woods. You will be certain to find something you have never seen before. Of course, it will be a little thing, but do not ignore it. Follow it up, explore all around it; one discovery will lead to another.”
– Alexander Graham Bell

I first saw this quote last week when Andrew Evans, National Geograhic‘s Digital Nomad, tweeted it from the Bell Homestead in Brantford, Ontario. He described the trip as a pilgrimage to the origins of our online reality. Before i-everythings and interwebs, there was Bell’s humble telephone.

The quote resonates with the traveller in me who’s not content to stay at home and do the same thing every day.

New discoveries – that’s exactly why I love travel so much. There’s always something new to see, something new to do, someone new to meet. Travel satisfies that part of me that seeks to learn and explore better than anything else.

As someone who works in Canadian telecom and in the digital media made possible by Bell, I feel like the big boss is giving me permission to go and make my own discoveries.

You can read more about Bell and the Bell Homestead in Andrew’s blog post, Alexander Graham Bell, Digital Nomad. I met Andrew last week when he passed through Toronto. Besides being incredibly tall, he’s a sweet and engaging guy who makes mundane things fascinating.

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in love with: floralis genérica

When I first read about Floralis Genérica – a giant flower sculpture that opens and closes with the sun – it sounded kinda cool. It made my list of things to see in Buenos Aires, but only if I had time. I didn’t expect to love it as much as I did.

Located in the mostly flat and mostly empty Plaza Naciones Unidas, it wasn’t hard to spot. But, I didn’t realize the scale of the thing until I was right underneath with the petals towering overhead, way out of reach.

Floralis Genérica

Floralis Genérica, Eduardo Catalano, 2002

A solar-powered system closes the petals at night and reopens them in the morning. In the day, though, subtle changes in the scene create motion in the sculpture. The blue and green reflections in the metal, the glinting sun, the ripples in the reflecting pool – Floralis Genérica is never quite the same if you pay attention to the details.

If you go, pack a picnic and head over around sunset to watch the flower close. For me, seeing the first twitch was the best part.

Floralis Genérica  Floralis Genérica

For more information: Buenos Aires Tourism

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